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The Perfect Yellowstone Vacation Plan

I grew up in southwestern Wyoming, only a few hours from Yellowstone but only visited a few times in my youth. I married a woman (also from southwestern Wyoming) whose family visited almost annually.

Thus, Yellowstone trips are now part of our family culture and our kids hold us accountable to keep our commitment of visiting every 4 years. We are not experts by any means but I really like our approach and plan we have followed when we've been the last 2 times and given the number of times I've shared it with others I decided it was time to put it in writing so it would be easier to share.

To give credit where it is due, my first Yellowstone trip as an adult was planned by my in-laws, who are Yellowstone experts and veterans. It was fantastic and since then I'm inclined to follow the plan the same way every time.

What follows is a helpful guide to anyone visiting Yellowstone but it caters to our 5-day trip which includes 2 days for travel and 3 in the park.

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Getting there – Airplanes, Cars, and which entrance

Yellowstone National Park is not close to any major airports. One could in theory fly into Jackson Hole but the cost is prohibitive for most. More likely you are going to fly into either Billings MT, Salt Lake City UT, or Denver CO.

Billings MT is the most expensive as it is the smallest of those three airports and finding a direct flight is near impossible.

Choosing between Salt Lake City and Denver is an easy choice as the drive from SLC to Yellowstone is appx 5 hours while the drive from DEN is 8 1/2 hours. Save the 3.5 hours in the car and fly into Salt Lake City.

If you rent a car get something with a little muscle. You likely won't be visiting during the winter so 4-wheel drive probably won't be necessary but you will be stuck behind your fair number of rented RVs and having a little muscle makes it easier to pass those vehicles, going uphill, on a 2-lane road.

I strongly discourage you from driving a RV or pulling a camper. Far too many places you visit are going to have PACKED FULL parking lots with limited spaces for oversized vehicles. You are going to hate parking.

This will also allow you to enter the park from the Southern entrance which is in my opinion preferable. There are several points of entrance to Yellowstone.

Image courtesy of this helpful page on the official park site that goes into more detail on each entrance. https://www.yellowstonepark.com/park/yellowstone-park-entrances

Coming from Montana you can enter at one of 2 northern entrances, or from Montana you can enter from “West Yellowstone” (which is almost Idaho), coming from Wyoming you can enter from the East coming from Cody WY, or lastly, you can enter from the south via Grand Teton National Park and Jackson Hole WY.

If you are driving from somewhere northwest or north perhaps one of the Montana entrances or the Idaho entrance will just be the most convenient for you but the Paulsen family comes via the south entrance primarily because visiting Yellowstone, but failing to visit Grand Teton National Park and/or Jackson Hole is a MAJOR Fail.

So trust me and come via Jackson Hole and enter the park from the south. If you fly in from Salt Lake City that will be the most convenient and direct route anyway. Coming from Denver it is equally as convenient as coming via Cody WY.

Where to Sleep – Camping VS “Lodges & Cabins”

Throughout the park there are many campsites, lodges, and cabins. Also immediately outside the park you can find lodging in Jackson Hole, Grand Teton National Park, West Yellowstone, and Cody.

On the Paulsen Yellowstone trip we don't camp. We are campers generally speaking but it isn't part of our Yellowstone experience. That said you do you.

Where you decide to stay, camping vs a lodge may be in part due to availability on your selected travel dates. Yellowstone allows you to book campsites and hotels/cabins up to 1 year in advance… and if you want your choice of options you should book 1 year in advance.

If you are traveling to Yellowstone between June and September and don't want to sleep on the ground you better be booking at least 6 months in advance.

Resource: Book Here

On our Paulsen trip we stay in the lodges and cabins. We book as far in advance as possible. More detail below in the “Itinerary” section on where we stay but if you are lucky to happen to find any available room at the iconic Old Faithful Inn book it immediately.

Image Courtesy of the official Yellowstone website. – Grant Ordelheide. Use this link to learn more about Old Faithful Inn https://www.yellowstonepark.com/where-to-stay-camp-eat/historic-old-faithful-inn

The Inn is the largest log hotel on the planet and was built in 1904. It is amazing.

What Should I Expect For Food?

Eating is a complicated thing in my family. My wife is a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner and we are blessed with one extremely picky eater child. All the same, with some basic sacrifices that are required for any vacation the below generally works well for us.

Throughout the park there are a number of “Lodges” and each is generally equipped with a restaurant and a cafeteria.

For the Paulsens we just plan to eat at the cafeterias as they tend to offer a lot of options, don't require waiting to order and be served, don't require tipping wait staff, and generally serve our needs well.

Resource: Click here to see all the dining options in Yellowstone

We also generally have a large cooler that we stock with some fresh food items including everything we intend to eat for Breakfast each day. We pick stuff up from a grocery store before we enter the park and use a cooler that can be “plugged-in” in both the car and in the hotel rooms.

Note that there are a few small stores in the park with a few basic grocery items but it is the equivalent of shopping at a 7-Eleven convenience store so don't count on finding what you need.

More details on where we eat in the Itinerary section below.

The Loop

Yellowstone National park is huge but most of the best tourist sites are right off the main highway of the park. The main highway system of the park looks like a big number 8 with two connecting loops. There are 5 core highways that connect the number 8 to the outside world.

When we visit we enter from the south entrance and circle the bottom loop of the figure 8 as shown in my little photoshop map below.

Screenshot from Google Maps with some Photoshop rough editing by yours truly.

Most of the awesome stuff is on this loop and while one day we may venture north to Mammoth Hot Springs and the old arch entrance, for now, we are very content with our loop shown above.

The Paulsen Itinerary – Day by Day

A fun Yellowstone map from the National Park Service website that highlights some of the most popular attractions in the park. https://www.nps.gov/yell/learn/kidsyouth/places.htm

Day 1 Arrive in Jackson Hole

Day 1 is a travel day. Our objective on this day is to get to Jackson in time for dinner. We eat dinner at Bubba's because my wife's childhood says we have to; and I am on board. Great BBQ and been a famous stop for over 40 years.

If budget and time allows and you want some excellent entertainment to go with that meal you should also consider the Bar J Chuckwagon.

After dinner we explore Jackson Hole downtown. Take the required picture at any of the four entrances to the town park and go in and out of all the fun tourist shops. Maybe buy some chocolate or laffy taffy just because.

2017

Stay that night at either the Antler Inn or the 49er Inn and Suites. Both are local, non-chain options that are affordable and come with plenty of local flavor.

Day 2 Explore Old Faithful & The Upper Geyser Basin

Day 2 wake up and head north toward the National Parks. Stop at most of the turn offs where tourists take pictures of the Teton Mountains. Yeah, you will never grow tired of the view and you can't take enough pictures.

My Son Is Awesome

Enter Grand Teton National Park and pay the $5 or whatever it is per vehicle entrance fee. Drive north to Yellowstone National Park. Pay another fee. Drive to Old Faithful and the Upper Geyer Basin. (Follow signs for Old Faithful).

We generally end up eating dinner at the Old Faithful cafeteria. We either packed in lunch or we eat lunch at the cafeteria as well.

Spend the rest of the day at Old Faithful. Things to do:

  • Watch Old Faithful erupt.
  • Explore the visitor's center. This is the best and most comprehensive visitor's center in the park by far. Our kids love it and we do too.
  • Walk down the hill, starting at Old Faithful and going roughly west and then north, past all the various geysers on that trail. Don't stop until you get to Morning Glory Pool.
  • Even if you aren't staying at Old Faithful Inn, go in after dusk and sit by the fire and admire the building and fireplace.
This picture was taken in June. Bring a jacket.

If you can stay at Old Faithful Inn you are lucky and I'm jealous. We've stayed at Snow Lodge before and it is very modern. We've also stayed in the Old Faithful Lodge Cabins and they are fun as well.

Day 3 Grand Prismatic, Paintpots, & Grand Canyon

Wake up and leave Old Faithful. Continue the loop to the west and north. Stop at all the larger parking lots where you see cars. Its probably worth stopping.

On Day 3 we drive all the way to Yellowstone Lake but on the way we are going to stop and see:

  • Grand Prismatic
  • The Paint Pots at “Fountain Paint Pot Trail”
  • Lunch at Canyon Village Cafeteria
  • Inspiration Point
  • Lower Lookout Point
  • Upper Falls of the Yellowstone (take Uncle Tom's Trail)

Finish the day at Lake Lodge. Eat dinner at the cafeteria and stay at the lodge or one of the Lake Lodge Cabins.

We love spending the evening on the porch/patio looking out at the lake and we love taking a short walk or hike along the lake.

Day 4 Enjoy the Lake and Finish At The Tetons

Wake up and take your last look at the lake as you drive on, now west and then south.

Stop at West Thumb Geyser Basin and walk those trails.

Then proceed south out of Yellowstone and into Grand Teton National Park.

Depending on how quickly you are moving you could get lunch at Grant Village or in Grand Teton National Park.

On our last trip we stayed at Colter Bay on Day 4 and we loved it. I'm sure staying at Jackson Lake Lodge or Jenny Lake Lodge would be equally picturesque.

Image from Grand Teton NP official site. https://www.gtlc.com/lodges/

My wife remembers hikes to and around Jenny Lake from her childhood and we enjoyed it as a family as well. Spend the afternoon and evening of Day 4 staring at the mountains from various places in Grand Teton National Park.

Day 5 Go Home

Day 5 it all comes to a close and we go home.

A few closing helpful thoughts

  • Don't plan on cell phone coverage… anywhere in the park
  • A few lodges may have wifi you can pay for
  • There is going to be a lot of wildlife. Stop and take pictures but don't be those annoying people who cause a traffic jam every time there is a Bison off the road
  • On our last Yellowstone vacation, we saw a license plate from every state but Delaware. Yeah, we play the license plate game and this is one place where you can probably find them all
  • The person who isn't driving should be on the lookout for wildlife as you go through the park. Deer, Bison, and Elk should be easy. Coyotes are bonus points. Gold star if you spot a bear. Call me immediately if you see wolves. A decent pair of binoculars would be nice.
  • The lodges and hotels don't have air conditioning. Its cool in the mountains… open a window. And even if you are coming in the middle of the summer bring a jacket or sweatshirt.
  • August is the busiest month at Yellowstone but the entire summer is pretty packed. Coming in the Spring or the Fall helps avoid crowds
  • Leave your dog home. I love my dogs but they are prohibited in most parts of the park. It isn't worth the hassle.
  • Here are answers to other frequently asked questions
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Cheat Time – Get More Done and Enjoy Your Life

As you have heard repeated over the years, time is the most valuable resource any of us have. I've been told many times that I can't get more of it but that is a lie. I may suck at a lot of things but ask anyone who does any work with me and they will tell you I somehow magically get a lot done in a very little amount of time.

TRUTH: There are a lot of ways to get more time

Money can't buy happiness, but time does make happiness, and money can buy time.

With a few simple tips you can cheat time. I do.

Here Are 8 Ways to Make More Time & Happiness

Playback Control

We all consume media right? TV shows you watch, videos online, and for many of us audio-books. I consume all of these things faster than most people because I speed up playback.

For audio-books I use the Audible app where I can increase playback speed as much as needed. I can listen to most books at 2X speed without any trouble. That is half the time to read the book.

When I watch TV shows or online videos I try to do so in Google Chrome and I use this extension to speed up playback: Video Speed Controller

Trust me, the latest episode of Blacklist is just as good in 25 minutes as it is in 40 minutes. For you binge watchers just imagine getting through an entire season of your favorite show in 2/3 the time!

Outsource Everything

Outsourcing tasks costs money… but it makes time. If you can spend more time doing the things that you are best at then your bottom line revenue should increase exponentially. In order to make the time to do things that make you a lot of money; you need to spend a little money to pay others to do everything else.

RESOURCE: Guide to Outsourcing Stuff Worth Less than My Time

Batch Activities

There are things you probably end up doing every day that waste your time. The process of beginning and ending the task are the same regardless of how much volume there is. For example, consider listening to and returning voicemail. If you check 1 voicemail message per day it might take 5 minutes. Instead if once per week you check voicemail you will have 7 total messages but instead of taking 35 minutes it will take less than 30. (Think I'm crazy to only check voicemail once per week? Resource: Making Voicemail a Tool of Productivity [Script])

What else do you do frequently that could be batched into chunks less frequently? Checking email, processing returns (a big one for me), accounting, making phone calls, home DIY projects, errands, and much more.

Stop Reprocessing

What is reprocessing? Essentially wasting time looking at something multiple times before taking action on it. You probably have emails in your inbox right now that you have read 3+ times and still haven't dealt with. If you can create a process by which you don't give anything your time and attention until you are ready to tackle the task and complete it, delegate it, or delete it; then you will save a ton of reprocessing time.

Exploit Shortcuts and Move Faster

I spend a large amount of my day in front of a computer. A lot of that time is spent typing things. On average I bet I am just hitting keys on my keyboard about 90 minutes a day. I type 95 Words Per Minute (WPM) where the average adult types only 40 WPM. That means my 90 minutes of typing each day would take the average human adult 3+ hours. If you are in front of a computer as often as I you could probably save yourself about 5 hours a week if you invested 30 minutes a week into improving your typing speed.

In addition to just typing faster you can save a ton of time by becoming more expert in software you use. Knowing shortcuts and the best tricks to Outlook, Gmail, PowerPoint, or whatever your daily tools are can have a tremendous effect on your time.

Start Saying No

You have probably heard this before. People will ask you for a lot of things. Start saying no to those things that are less important than your family or whatever thing it is you are trying to make time for.

Bio-Hack & Buy Health

Each year you probably lose several days of productivity outright to being sick. In addition, there are probably many more days each year where you get substantially less done than you should because you don't feel as well as you should.

Time is lost when you aren't performing optimally. This is another instance where some better health related decisions can buy you time. Eating better, exercise and all the other things you already know about can dramatically increase your productivity and limit down time. In addition to the amount of time you “buy” right now, you are also literally adding years to your life which is another amazing consideration of making more time.

Resource: Eliminating the Common Cold From Life

Hack Travel Time

For work or for leisure travel is a part of your life. For some of us it is more frequent a part than for others. Travel is a perfect place to make more time in life in a few different ways.

  1. Don't travel in ways that will kill your energy and reduce your health. No point in getting there early if it is going to take me 12 hours to recover from the trip.
  2. Time in the car or time on the plane can be very productive with a little bit of planning. If you are going to be outside of WiFi then plan in advance tasks that can be worked on and completed without WiFi… or without a computer at all. I often batch my phone calls for days when I know I have some car time.
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My Wonderful Ami & 2011 Goals

Wives just don’t get enough credit in general and mine is no different. 2010 was an interesting year for us. I started working for Matchbin Inc in December of 2009. I learned a lot from the great people there and the company introduced me to my future employer. The work required a lot of travel and over the course of the year I boarded exactly 90 planes and visited 16 different states (not including airports). Traveling is glamorous at first. All the hotels, sites, airports, people, etc were really fun at first. Eventually it wore me down and I just wanted to be home with my family but the real sacrifices were never made by the road warrior. They were made by my wife. During Ami’s first trimester she spent over a month bed-ridden. When I say she was stuck in bed I mean it. The nausea was so bad she had to have IVs from house visiting nurse people. Luckily my family was able to fill a gap and my mom was able to move in with Ami during my trips and my sister made frequent stops to clean our house (despite being pregnant herself).

There are many more untold pains and sacrifices that come to a family when the father/husband is gone all the time. Its a lifestyle that I understand can work for some but really wasn’t working for us. Through it all Ami was extremely supportive and grateful that I was able to secure good employment during such a rough economy.

Now I live in Denver. The word I being the key. On December 5th (22 days after Lucy was born) I left to start my new job with Entravision Communications in Denver. I left a recovering wife alone with a 3 year old and a 3 week old. Its worse than it sounds. Dealing with a crazy and demanding child is tough while you are trying to nurse a newborn but there are other responsibilities that Ami was forced to assume. In trying to sell our house in this type of market we have to take full advantage of every house showing we have. This means that Ami is forced to keep the house in absolute perfect cleanliness because you never know when the agent might call and ask to show your house in 3 hours. Mix this in with the Holiday decorating, cooking, shedding dog, and family gatherings and its a miracle she doesn’t pull her hair out.

2011 has started with better hopes for our future than we have had in a long time. Hopefully we will be able to sell our house in the next few months. As Ami joins me we will be able to pick out a home in the very state where we have dreamed of moving since we were married in 2005. In 2009 I did a half marathon. In 2010 I competed in a Triathlon relay with my family. This year I will be running a full marathon. In 2012 I still have to convince Ami but I want to climb Mt Rainer (with a guide:).

goalsOur other goals include going to Disneyland and finalizing our 1 year of food storage and our emergency cash fund. I am also going to read 50 new books. Last year I think I read around 20 but many of those were books I had read once before.

Self-reflection is very healthy and these are among my favorite blog posts to write. So a huge hug and kiss to my wonderful wife and children, and if any of you are in Denver… look me up!

Jacob S Paulsen

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